Month: February 2023

updated March 2023 to add Pigeon Cay anchorage

Cat Island is one of the Bahamas Out Islands, meaning it is other than Grand Bahama or New Providence. But that doesn’t tell you much about Cat. New Providence and Grand Bahama make up 83% of the country’s population, while Cat has only 1,6oo residents scattered over 150 square miles. While there is a significant expat population, as well as some long and short term renters in season, there aren’t many resorts or hotels, so a visitor gets a sense that this is a Bahamian island for Bahamians, but all are welcome. Quite welcome. Because of the lack of tourism, the folks you meet are genuinely happy to meet you. Please greet each person you encounter and you will surely get a warm response. One encounter we had with a gentleman proves this point: we were approaching a commercial wharf looking for a place to tie up the dinghy. A man who had been relaxing in the shade approached us to help us find a spot. When we came back from shopping, we had a tip ready for him. His hand was never out, he was just trying to be helpful. No tip needed.

This was our third visit to Cat Island and, thanks to some decent weather, our longest. Cat has many beautiful anchorages, as long as the wind has some east in it. Any significant west wind will send a cruiser to either Hawks Nest Marina on the southern tip of the island or to another island with better protection. This year we were able to anchor out for ten days before ducking into Hawks Nest Marina for four days to weather a front with a lot of NW wind.

There are no dingy docks anywhere on the island. Most of the beaches are steep to, with a ledge at low water so its easy to beach the dinghy and tie off to a shoreline tree. There are some areas with rocky edges so you will need to be careful.

Even after combining our first two visits with this last trip we still failed to checkout everything on our wish list. Therefore, while this post contains mostly first hand experiences from our visits, we have included a few suggested sights that we tried to visit but weren’t able to. The post will cover navigation and anchorages first(north to south), then cover things to do, places to eat and where to shop. I have included phone numbers where possible. Many of these businesses are also on WhatsApp and/or Facebook Messenger. I suggest contacting any business/restaurant before visiting.

Navigation and Anchoring

Navigating the banks (west side) of the island is straightforward but there are areas of coral that are less than 5′ below the surface at low tide. The Explorer charts do a good job of identifying these areas so, armed with good light you should be fine.

We found nothing but deep sand wherever we anchored. While there are significant grassy areas, there are always plenty of white sand areas. Most of the shoreline is relatively steep to, so you can come in much closer to shore than the Explorer charts suggest.

Cat’s windward shore is the open Atlantic so any significant ocean swell is likely to bend around into the anchorages. This can be quite noticeable when anchored in the northern areas when a NE swell is running outside. It is easy to get fooled by a local SE breeze and anchor to avoid the wind chop and then get rolled by the ocean swell from 90 degrees out. We used our flopper stoppers much of the time. Specific strategies to avoid the ocean swell will be covered in each anchorage.

Shannas Cove

Shannas Cove provides good protection from east winds and decent protection from minor swell from either NE or SE. With mild conditions we anchored in the middle of the bay. The north end, in front of Shanna’s Cove Resort, is a bit shallow. We anchored in 10′ and the area carried 7′ to near the beach. The SE corner can provide decent protection from a SE swell. The beaches to the north are deserted and spectacular. There is even a cave on one beach that is accessible at low tide. There are some excellent coral fields as well but it was too rough the day we did our dinghy explore. Dinner at Shannas Cove Resort (242-359-9668) was excellent. Maria and Gregor are your friendly hosts, originally from Germany and they serve a fixed price($60), fixed menu three-course gourmet dinner. They had a new chef from Switzerland who did an excellent job. Call ahead for reservations.

As you approach the bay you will drive over a series of sand and grass ridges and you will loose a few feet of depth each time. We never saw less than 8′ MLW on our approach from the SE, maybe 7′ MLW on the way out southbound.

While we did not anchor there, the area south of Orange Creek Point would provide good protection from NE wind or swell. Additionally, Gregor from Shannas Cove Resort mentioned that Orange Creek Food Store (242-354-4110) was a good, small store (closed on Saturday). We did not have a chance to visit it.

Pigeon Cay and Pigeon Creek aka Alligator Creek

Pigeon Cay provides another spectacular beach, excellent holding and protection from east through north. We even handled some moderate NNW with just a bit of wrap around chop getting to us.

We first anchored to the east to avoid a SE swell, then moved to the NW spot to escape a bit of NNW. The area around the NW anchor spot is excellent white sand with occasional large coral heads that provide decent snorkeling off the back of the boat. The beach drops off quickly to 6’+ and smooth sand extends to about 100 yards off the beach. Beyond that, there is a mix of rock and sand so you will need to pick and choose a place to drop. We anchored about 200′ off the beach in 10′.

Besides the coral, we came here to take a trip up Pigeon Creek. It is famous for its turtle population but we didn’t see many. While the main creek is wide and deep there are many branch creeks that would be perfect for kayaking. Had we had more time, we would have towed the kayaks with the dingy to access these side creeks that extend deep into the mangroves.

Benett’s Harbour

We anchored at Benett’s Harbour specifically to eat at Da Island Kitchen (242-354-6003) and buy some of Chef Andrew’s bread. Unfortunately, he was closed. That’s the second time we visited to find him closed. Suggestion: call ahead. That said, the anchorage was protected and pleasant. Mix of locals and expats live in the modest homes on the beach. The area carries 7′ to near shore. The two small coral heads are visible and are deep enough to ignore. Speaking of coral, near the beach we snorkeled a little patch coral. It was nothing exciting, just an easy little spot to check out the fish. Walking the beach is very nice and we were welcomed to the neighborhood by at least three different folks. We did not make it to Yardie’s (242-354-6076) for drinks or food, but hear it is quite an institution on the island and withing walking distance. We did see it on a previous visit and I recall they serve in a carport, very low key.

Smith’s Bay

This is the commercial dock for the area. We went in by dinghy from where we anchored about a mile south at Fernandez Bay, and tied to a bollard on the concrete wharf. Alvernia Foods Store (242-342-2042) is just across the street and is thought to have the best produce.

Fernandez Bay

Fernandez is an inviting bay with good protection. Choose the NE or SE corner of the main bay or slide in south of the small island. Call ahead to Fernandez Bay Village Resort (242- 824-3043) for lunch or dinner. We failed to do so and they were closed for a post-Christmas break. We had a nice lunch there last year. I was so happy to finally anchor here, as we had heard that snorkeling the coral near the small island was nice. Ultimately we decided not to stay and the snorkeling was not to be, darn!

Update (March 2023) We went back to Fernandez and this time enjoyed a nice happy hour at the resort. We also snorkeled the coral around the islands in the bay. While the coral was decent, there weren’t that many fish. The water was also a bit cloudy, likely due to some remnants of a westerly breeze.

New Bight

New Bight is a popular cruiser hang out with Fish Fry restaurants, bakery, etc. Holding is excellent throughout the bay. You can tuck up into the NE corner to escape a northerly swell and even weather a little NNW wind event. Not good if winds approach south. The east side of the bay is steep too, but the north end is shallow and hard with a rocky bottom. If you are going to the Fish Fry area you can safely run the dingy up onto shore, but not if you are trying to get to restaurants or groceries on the north of town. Better to park at Fish Fry and walk.

First priority when visiting here is to climb to The Hermitage on Mt. Alvernia, the highest hill in the Bahamas (206 ft). You can easily see the white structures from the anchorage. It is a miniature monastery, just big enough for one person. Beloved Father Jerome , who built churches all over the Bahamas, had it built for his retirement.

Don’t miss Olive’s Bakery (242-342-31340) in the kelly green house. Buy her amazing cinnamon swirl bread and try her “flour cakes”. They are a Cat Island specialty that is like a small biscuit flavored with cardamom (I think). The Fish Fry stalls are great. We tried CD’s and another with no sign. Duke’s looked popular for conch salad. Also at CD’s you can inquire about any upcoming Rake N Scrape music events. If you gather an audience from the anchorage, they will likely play a little for you. Bring money for tips. Cat Island is the home of Rake N Scrape! There is a new beachfront restaurant called Tingum Dem. You can see their gazebos from the anchorage. Everyone loves their wings. There is a small white building, just south of the police station and BTC tower called Bluebird Restaurant. It is run by a group of elderly sisters that know home-cooking! They mostly serve weekday lunches and you can call ahead to let them know you are coming on VHFch16. Don’t miss their spicy potato salad.

New Bight Food Store (242-342-3011), also known as Gilbert’s is about a mile or so north of Fish Fry. We walked to the store and asked if they could give us a ride back to the beach with our groceries. They obliged, but this was several years ago. Best to ask before assuming this is possible.

Old Bight

Anchoring at Old Bight puts you in front of Rollezz Resort and Restaurant (242-557-0005). Again, you can get pretty close to shore with the big boat, maybe 100 ft. off, and beach the dinghy. This is where you want to be for strong SE winds and swell. The owners of Rollez, Yvonne and Carl Rolle, are friendly and welcoming to cruisers, but you need to call ahead for dinner reservations. They serve a lovely fixed price ($48), fixed menu, three-course dinner. It is a wonderful experience and very high quality. If you want to stretch your legs, it is a mile walk to a good bakery, Alnor’s (242-342-4131). Follow the driveway out of Rollez Resort to the main road and go south for about a half mile. They are famous for their coconut bread. Be sure to try their little flour cakes, a Cat Island specialty. Call before you go, to make sure they are open.

Joe Sound Creek (Update March 2023) We took the kayaks into Joe Sound creek and a few of the mangrove tributaries. Plenty of turtles, juvenile sharks and the like.

Hawks Nest Marina

Hawks Nest s a totally protected marina at the south end of Cat Island. We have ducked in here twice for weather. The channel is dredged so you need to be in it. Best you cross reference the Google Earth image so you can see the channel. 8′ minimum at low tide in the channel. There are a few marks in place. The reds are red and the greens are faded to white. They sit on the edges of the channel. Note that the chart registration (Explorer, CMAP, etc) is way off, so if you plot a course down the middle of the channel, it will put you on the rocks if you try and drive your route. I transferred coordinates from Google earth to my chart plotter. Anyway, if you follow the channel markers, you will be fine. I thought it was a bit tricky, but the 105′ yacht behind us had no issues.

The current is impressive on the ebb, so plan on slack or near slack rising, if this is your first time. Slack high is about two hours after high tide using the Cat Island tide station and 1:45 hours after low tide, more forgiving towards the end of the rising tide. There is no current inside the basin, but it can be tricky on entry if your bow is out of the current while the stern is still being pushed or pulled by the current.

The marina is run by great folks. Jerry, the dockmaster is happy to help you. The small resort portion of the facility is a quarter mile from the marina. They have a clubhouse/restaurant with serve-yourself honor bar. They typically serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Be sure to place your dinner order in the afternoon. Their pool is a lovely place to relax and look out at the beautiful waters. We have rented a car from the office on both of our two visits. Anton, the manager, is happy to assist with this.

Port Howe

This bay is on the south end of the island. We have never used it but we talked with locals who have kept there boat in here for years. And the dive boat from the Greenwood Resort parks here. Often swelly but excellent protection from north wind cold fronts. The barrier reef effectively breaks much of the swell.

Atlantic Beaches

During our time with our rental car, we were interested in exploring Atlantic beaches. We took the rough, but drivable road across from Smith Bay to the area near a closed resort, pictured above. It was a beautiful pink sand beach, great for walking and hunting for treasures.

Greenwood Resort

Another stop on our rental car explore was Greenwood Resort (242-342-3053), in the southeast Cat. We called ahead and asked to join them for lunch. We had a great meal and then explored their lovely pink-sand beach. They have some chairs to relax in after you dine. We also walked around the resort. They also have a nice pool and grounds. They specialize in SCUBA diving and kite-surfing.

Our final stop with the rental car was Da Pink Chicken (242-474-1133). This is the definitive dive bar. Only open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, 2pm-sunset. We happened to be there on a Sunday, and it seemed that everyone we had met on the island was also there. Sunday is the day to be there! Maybe everything else is closed?

Two more places worth mentioning, if you have a car: Da Smoke Pot (242-354-2094) is run by Julien. We stopped by on a previous visit and chatted with him, but he had not reopened yet after Covid. Also consider Hidden Treasures Restaurant. We had lunch there when they used to be located at Fish Fry in New Bight. But they had a fire and have since moved a mile or two north, on the main road. Both of these places get rave reviews.

A helpful hint to visiting Cat Island is to join the Facebook group, The Cat Island Chronicles. It is full of helpful folks who can answer any questions you have.